When I think about the trees in the woods around our house, I think about strength, about longevity. I look at some of them, particularly the big beech trees that tower along the track to the beach, and I know they’ve been around longer than I have, and some of them will be here long after I’ve gone. There are Scots pine in the garden, lots of elder, ash of course, but there isn’t any oak. I love oak, it’s such a reassuring tree.
After 6 years, or 24 seasons, the oak sleepers that form the raised beds are starting to soften in places. They were untreated, which I prefer, so it doesn’t surprise me really, the winters are hard and damp where we are, and wood hates the damp. I hoped they might go on for decade, but the earth is starting to work its way out in various places. I’m plugging holes with odd stones and topping up the compost with an unusual regularity. I’m wondering just how I would go about replacing them? Do I swap out the suspect sleepers for new ones, as and when, or do I replace them all in one hit? It’s hard to know, I’m sure the latter will be quite a lot of work. I’m tempted to have a go with the Rhino Aluminium raised beds, at least I know I won’t get the same problems with them. We will have to see, but in the meantime, I’m sure I have another summer or two left in my sleepers, particularly if I give them a little TLC from time to time.
Speaking of wood and trees, my greenhouse had a narrow escape earlier on in the winter. During an absolutely fowl and stormy night a big Ash limb fell from the tree above and came crashing down, slap bang in the middle of the veg garden, missing the greenhouse by a matter of inches. Luck was on my side, it would have been a right old mess, but I didn’t get away scot-free. The huge branch buckled the deer fence, which had to be remade, tore the gate off centre, crushed all my small red onions and generally caused havoc. The clean up operation didn’t take that long, and we got a stack of firewood out of it which was something, but it did make me a little more concerned about the ash that surround the greenhouse. They all have varying degrees of die back, so it’s only a matter of time before something like this might happen again. I think I better talk to tree surgeon sooner rather than later.
I’m planning what seeds to buy at the moment (a tough job) as it’s almost time to start sowing. It’s a bit cold outside still and I don’t have any heated matts in the greenhouse, so most of the propagation takes place inside where it’s nice and warm, even in the winter.
I’m not planning on mixing things up too much this year. I know what does well in our garden and what doesn’t, and I know what I like to eat so it’s a straightforward task. The hard bit is picking the right varieties of seed, and remembering which ones I had last time, I’ve never been good at keeping notes! I’ll be ordering some more Paul Robeson Tomatoes. They really were exceptionally good, flavoursome, juicy and full of character, what’s more, they seemed to evade the blite, which is always a bonus.
I’m also looking forward to using my Rhino cold frames properly this year. I’m determined to grow as much as possible, so as we edge into spring, I think they’ll really come into their own. I’ve got three that sit neatly along the side of the greenhouse, revolutionising my use of space. Now I can keep the bench inside free for sowing and potting on without my little seedings encroaching on me from every direction. They’re a real game changer so check them out here.
I’m very much looking forward to spring, but while we still have all this chilly weather and there’s still a bit of purple sprouting broccoli left in the garden, I thought I’d include my recipe for purple sprouting pancakes filled with celeriac and chestnut mushrooms, After all Pancake days not far off now.
Purple sprouting pancakes filled with celeriac and chestnut mushrooms
There are a few different stages to this recipe, but the end result is worth all the toil and trouble – promise! I like to use buckwheat flour for my pancakes because it gives them a lovely, tender texture, but there’s no reason you couldn’t use plain flour instead.
For the pancakes
100g (31⁄2oz) buckwheat flour
good pinch of fine sea salt
1 egg
150ml (5fl oz) whole milk
1 knob of unsalted butter
for the filling
400g (14oz) bright- purple sprouting broccoli
1⁄2 celeriac, peeled and cut into 1–2cm (1⁄2–3⁄4in) pieces
1 onion, halved and sliced
200g (7oz) firm chestnut mushrooms, thickly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1⁄2 small handful of thyme
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp buckwheat groats (optional)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
for the white sauce
1 litre (35fl oz) whole milk
4 bay leaves
1 onion, sliced
1 celery stick, sliced
a few black peppercorns
70g (21⁄2oz) unsalted butter
70g (21⁄2oz) plain flour
150g (51⁄2oz) hard sheep’s or cow’s cheese, grated
Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6.
Make the pancake batter. Place the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and crack in the egg. Combine the milk with 150ml (5fl oz) of water. Pour half the milk and water mixture into the bowl and whisk until you have a thick, smooth batter. Pour in the remaining milk and water mixture and whisk again. You’re aiming for the consistency of double cream. Cover the batter and refrigerate until needed.
Start the filling. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the purple sprouting broccoli, bring back to the simmer and cook for 3–4 minutes, until just tender, then drain and set aside.
Scatter the celeriac, onion and mushrooms out over a large baking tray and add the garlic. Strip the leaves from half the thyme and add these, too, then trickle over the olive oil. Season well with salt and pepper and tumble everything together. Place the baking tray in the hot oven and roast, turning the vegetables occasionally, for 35–40 minutes, until all lovely and tender. Transfer the roasted vegetables to a large mixing bowl.
While the vegetables are roasting, heat the milk for the white sauce with the bay leaves, onion, celery and peppercorns. When it begins to simmer, remove the pan from the heat and set aside to infuse.
When you’re ready to cook the pancakes, heat a large non-stick frying pan over a low heat. Add the knob of butter and, when it’s bubbling, pour nearly all of it into the bowl of batter and whisk. Add a small ladleful of the pancake batter to the pan, then tilt the pan to spread the mixture out evenly.
As it sets, after about 1 minute, lift the edge of the pancake with a spatula, then flip the pancake over. Cook the other side for 30–40 seconds, until golden, then slide the pancake out onto a warm plate. Repeat until you’ve made 6 pancakes in total.
Heat the butter for the white sauce in a medium, heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Scatter over the flour and, using a wooden spoon, work it into the butter. Cook gently, stirring regularly, for 1 minute. Set a sieve over the pan and pour in half the infused milk. Remove the sieve and work the milk into the butter and flour mixture. Once it thickens, replace the sieve and pour in the remaining milk, then remove the sieve again and beat the sauce with a whisk to a thick, smooth consistency. Add half the grated sheep’s cheese and season with plenty of salt and pepper. Stir well.
Pour half the sauce into the celeriac and mushroom mixture and stir well. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.
Lay out your pancakes on a large, clean work surface. Divide the broccoli between them, then spoon over equal amounts of the celeriac and mushroom mixture. Carefully roll up the pancakes and place them in a large baking dish side by side. Pour over the remaining white sauce and scatter over the remaining cheese, the buckwheat groats (if using) and the remaining thyme sprigs.
Bake in the oven for 25 minutes, or until golden brown on top and bubbling. Serve with a dressed green salad.